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      DIRTY DIESELS

      DIRTY DIESELS

      A bad tune can hurt more than just your wallet

      You don’t need to look too far back to realise diesel performance tuning in Australia has had a dramatic change. Even in the last 5 years it’s gone from a niche modification off-roaders make to something every man and his dual cab ute wants for family work, the 9-5 grind, and serious outback travel. After all, it’s one of those modifications with no negatives, if it’s done right. That last point is the key, and something we’ve come across more than a few times here at Roo HQ. There’s more tuners than ever, many of them are good, many more aren’t.

      There’s a few reasons behind this too. The most obvious is with the Commodore and Falcon dying out more and more people are flocking to dual cab utes, the other is that with the birth of electronically controlled diesels it’s never been easier to tune a diesel, but those same tools that make it a simple process also make it simple to stuff up. Any old numpty can download a tune off the internet, throw your pride and joy on a 2nd hand dyno and call it good. The problem is, with dodgy tuners paying for the work isn’t where the credit card swiping ends, in many cases you’ll be paying for it for years in excessive fuel consumption and replacing components way before their use-by-date, and in most cases the tuner won’t have a clue why. Sound complicated? Well it is, and it isn’t, but that’s why we’re here today.

      THE WRONG TUNE

      When it comes to chasing power out of your 4WD the actual figures are essentially irrelevant, with just about every other consideration coming in to play before them. We’ll look at what potential limitations the vehicle has like torque limiters, substandard injectors, and turbochargers only just up to the task and then work in those parameters with the end goal for usable power at the speeds you need them. If at the end of the process the numbers are large, that’s fantastic, but we really couldn’t care less. For some tuners those numbers are the one and only goal. They’ll throw drivability to the wind giving you a 4WD that potentially runs hot, damages components, and feels everywhere you’re driving it, except flat stick on the dyno. Rather than chasing efficiencies in little places here and there these tunes are often the 4WD equivalent of a sledge hammer. Throwing boost and fuel into your engine with no regard for anything else, as long as it doesn’t go bang while they have the keys.

      DOWN THE LINE

      So what does all this mean apart from slightly higher fuel consumption making all that power? The big factor is your 4WDs Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF), a vital piece of emissions equipment designed to reduce harmful diesel particulates from entering the atmosphere. It works like a giant sponge with a couple of sensors inside. As your engine runs, the DPF simply captures the particulates, eventually choking up and letting the ECU know it’s time to do a burn, or regeneration cycle. To achieve this the engine will dump huge amounts of fuel into the engine, raising exhaust gas temperatures through the roof literally burning the build-up into finer, less harmful particles.

      Now when these dodgy tuners start throwing around keyboards like they know which end of an exhaust to put the engine on they’ll often do what we call a dirty tune. A performance tune that basically dumps fuel into the engine for maximum power. It’s an incredibly basic setup with little thought put into creating usable power. It was a very common way to tune a diesel engine when we were still spinning spanners on mechanical injection pumps and even many performance chips, but it doesn’t cut the mustard now engines and our tuning methods have advanced. Y’see, the big problem isn’t necessarily jamming fuel into the engine, it’s excessive diesel soot finding its way into your DPF, sometimes up to twice the amount. That means the DPF is filling twice as fast, requiring twice the burn cycles, and twice the fuel used to do the burn as a result. When you consider that some models can suck in an extra 3L to do the burn, and are doing them every few hundred kays it starts seriously adding up over the life of the vehicle, even if your instant fuel usage looks great. Not only this, but most DPFs will also have a limited service life. Over time the ceramic material inside can become brittle, breaking down and clogging the filter requiring a full replacement. Twice the soot going through, half the DPFs life. When you budget in a replacement DPF from Toyota for an N80 HiLux right now will run you $4,000 it’s something you probably want to keep in working order.

      THE SOLUTION

      In Facebook land where facts don’t matter and the info is made up anyway the solution is often seen as simply removing the DPF. The logic is basic enough, no DPF, no regeneration cycle using fuel, no filter to clog up and require replacing. The problem is it’s kind of like yanking your exhaust off because you bought an eBay mild steel special and it rusted away, rather than a quality stainless jobby. Making bad decisions to cover bad decisions rarely leads to good results.

      When it comes to removing emissions gear the Environmental Protection Agency takes things pretty bloody seriously too, to the tune of a $250,000 fine for the vehicle owner, and $1,000,000 to the workshop doing the work if they want to throw their weight around. That eBay DPF delete pipe isn’t looking too crash hot now is it?

      Like it or not, high-tech 4WDs are the way of the future. If you like things like capability, good fuel consumption, and being able to breathe when someone starts the engine it’s a damn good thing too. Sooner or later every diesel workshop will either be forced to get with the times and start working with technology, or they can keep bringing a knife to a gun fight till they find themselves not having a clue how to work on a new 4WD, we’re just ahead of the curve like usual. By setting your vehicle up to comply and work within the factory systems you’re often not only working within the factory warranties, you’re saving yourself from the potential risk of life-changing fines, decreased air quality, and a whole lot of negative side effects in your 4WD. When things are done right, they just work better, and that’s something you can’t download off the internet.

      ALL CHOKED UP

      ALL CHOKED UP

      Doing the daily grind in your 4WD? Chances are it’s…

      Carbon build up has been a life-long problem in petrol engines. Pick up a 70 year old copy of Popular Mechanics and you’ll find loads of info on de-coking an engine. Unfortunately, as technology has improved the issue has gotten worse rather than better, with modern diesel engines copping it worse than others. The term is a bit of a catch all, but the basic breakdown is a build-up lining the walls of the intake narrowing airways, gunking up sensors, and causing all sorts of issues with fuel economy and engine longevity. It’s an issue that commonly comes up with 4WDs that just do the daily-grind, or are rarely driven under load or for long distances at high speed. So if your 4WD is also the family wagon it’s more susceptible than the weekend warrior.

      While older engines are mainly affected by spent exhaust gases being pushed back up through the inlet valve, modern ones are a little more complicated. The key factor is oil misted pressurised air being pushed through the crankcase on compression, up through the breather and back into the air intake. This oil misted air then mixes with hot gases flowing through the EGR valve and gums up everything it meets. The result is an intake system that struggles to move air freely and can lodge vital components open.

      THE SYMPTOMS

      When issues go wrong with your drivetrain most will present themselves immediately with huge power loss, excessive temperatures, or billowing smoke from the exhaust. A choked-up intake system will be a more gradual progression with the owner often not being aware anything is wrong until things reach breaking point.

      There’s two main concerns when carbon builds up. The first, is a physical restriction in the intake itself. Imagine tapping up the end of your snorkel head smaller and smaller and you’ll get the picture. It can starve the engine of air causing issues with air fuel ratios, bad fuel economy, and excessive smoke from the exhaust. If the inlet is clogged enough it can also cause back pressure against the turbo and poor throttle response.

      The other issue, is the EGR or inlet valves sticking open. As carbon deposits build up on these it can stop them sealing properly. It’ll allow the engine to suck in exhaust gas when it thinks it’s only getting fresh air, throwing fuel ratios out the window potentially melting pistons or cracking heads. In most cases, by the time you identify an issue the underlying cause is normally so far advanced damage has already taken place so sitting back waiting for symptoms is a huge gamble.

      THE FIX

      If you’ve got a diesel and haven’t done anything to prevent carbon build up it’s almost guaranteed your intake will be at least partially blocked, it’s as simple as that. To rectify this there’s a few ways you can go about it.

      The first, and simplest, is a chemical clean out. If the vehicle isn’t showing any signs of excessive build-up such as poor fuel consumption or a lack of power, we’ll often use a Liqui-Moly product known as Pro-Line intake cleaner. It requires basic removal of air intake pipe work to gain access to the EGR system, then we’ll run the cleaning agent through to break down the build-up and flush it through.

      If things have gotten beyond that stage, simple chemical cleaning often won’t be enough to get all the ins and outs cleaned, or to free larger deposits. When they get to this point it’ll require stripping the intake system completely off the vehicle and manually cleaning it inside and out to get it like new. In older diesels, it’s not too labour intensive, but modern diesels and especially V8 ‘Cruisers can be up to a full day in labour to get the job done properly.

      THE VACCINE

      They say an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure and in this case that couldn’t be closer to the truth. The fix all for all these issues is incredibly simple.

      Fit a catch can.

      Fitting a catch can when you start with a clean intake removes the oil-misted air from the intake, giving the carbon nothing to catch on and build up. The result is a free flowing EGR system, no gunk on the lip of your valves, and no restrictions throughout the manifold with absolutely no side effects and completely legal. Don’t go chucking any old eBay catch can on though. Cheap alternatives often have very little baffling to actually remove the oil from the air, making them just a fancy looking hose. They can also have restrictions as well which will build up pressure inside the engine and start punching oil seals out. A quality unit will cost a few hundred dollars installed, but WILL save you literally thousands of dollars over the life of the vehicle. And that’s smart money in anyone’s books.

      CHOOSING THE RIGHT CLUTCH FOR YOUR 4WD

      CHOOSING THE RIGHT CLUTCH FOR YOUR 4WD

      We lift the curtain on the black art of clutches

      With so many people chasing big power and towing big loads with their 4WDs it’s not surprising to see weak points starting to pop up all throughout modern drivelines. From axle studs to free wheeling hubs we’ve just about seen them all, but one modification that’s starting to become more and more common is clutch upgrades. Just a few years ago a clutch upgrade was something you’d rarely see outside of an engine converted 4WD or people pushing their rigs to the extreme towing loads bordering on illegal. The poor bugger stomping on the clutch pedal would usually end up with a left leg that’d look right at home on an Olympic weight lifter just from the excessive pedal pressure required to engage and disengage the clutch. Nowadays, clutch upgrades are a little more routine, and a whole lot better in the results department. Combine that with the increasing demands we’re putting on our 4WDs and it’s pretty obvious why they’re becoming such a popular upgrade. But how exactly do they work, what makes the stock unit not up to the task, and when should you look for an upgrade? Well you’ve come to the right place to find out.

      HOW DOES A CLUTCH WORK

      Before we can get too caught up on the ins and outs of upgrading clutches it’s important to know exactly how they work. From the driver’s seat it’s just a push on a pedal and you’re off and running, but the actual mechanics are a little more involved. To stop your engine stalling as soon as you stop and facilitate smooth gear shifts you need a way to physically disconnect the engine from the rest of your driveline, this is where clutches come in. At the back of your engine (if you have a manual gearbox) you’ll find a large metal disc called a flywheel.

      Bolted to that are the two major components that make up a clutch; the clutch plate attached to the gearbox, and the pressure plate attached to the engine. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal the pressure plate pushes the clutch plate into the flywheel, from there the high friction material on the clutch plate bites into the flywheel until the two are locked together and drive is sent through to the gearbox. Think of it a little like a reverse brake setup. With your brakes when you press the pedal your brake pads are pushed into a disc until eventually the speeds match and your 4WD stops. With a clutch the clutch plate is pushed into the flywheel until the speeds match and you take off.

      WHAT KILLS THEM?

      Just like brake pads wear down over time and should be replaced, your clutch is a consumable item and needs to be looked at the same way. By their very nature they’re constantly losing material every time they work, so expecting one to last forever is a recipe for disaster. That said, there are a few things that’ll kill off a clutch quicker than expected. Most issues will result around the clutch plate material wearing away or physically not being able to hold on to the flywheel anymore, this is commonly known as clutch slip.

      Premature wear of the friction material can be caused in a number of ways. In street driven vehicles it’s generally hard launches, riding the clutch, and resting your foot on the clutch pedal that will wear away the friction material. In a 4WD it’s often caused by putting more load into the system than the clutch can hold, breaking its grip on the flywheel. This can be caused by towing heavy loads, power upgrades, or even fitting larger tyres.

      Another often overlooked aspect of clutch failure is the pressure plate. While the clutch plate itself may have enough friction to hold onto the flywheel, if the pressure plate can’t hold it against the flywheel clutch slip will still occur. No matter what the point of failure is the result is a 4WD that’s not able to get power to the ground.

      DO YOU NEED AN UPGRADED UNIT?

      For some people this is a simple answer, for others it’s a little more complicated. If you have a late model 70 Series LandCruiser or HiLux you need a clutch upgrade, it’s as simple as that. The standard units are so weak Toyota have knocked back warranty claims on slipping clutches because of simple power upgrades like an exhaust system. If an extra 10hp will finish them off what chance does it have of holding up to towing a camper trailer, caravan, or even serious off-road work?

      For anyone else there’s a few questions you need to ask yourself. Your clutch was designed to handle a standard configuration 4WD doing standard work. If you’ve fitted accessories such as power upgrades or larger tyres you’re probably asking more of your clutch than it was designed too. Likewise, towing heavy loads or travelling in hilly or sandy terrain can both easily overcome a standard clutch. If you’ve found your 4WD doesn’t pull as hard as it used to it may be a slipping clutch and a prime candidate for an upgraded replacement.

       

      WHAT TO LOOK FOR

      It’s easy when heading down the upgrade path to go for the biggest baddest option you can find, but it’s not always the best solution. A clutch that bites hard is easy to make, but the result will be an on or off type of situation which will be an absolute pig to drive and doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll last any longer than stock. A quality clutch upgrade needs to be looked at like a whole system, and is very rarely a one size fits all package. For most 4WDs we’ll offer one of a few options from Exedy’s Safari range or NPC Performance Clutches. Depending on the customer’s needs we’ll tailor a package that’ll provide up to three times the stock clamping force to deal with the loads of towing, power upgrades, and increase tyre diameter and vehicle weight. We can balance that with custom flywheels and pressure plates to maintain a stock or better pedal feel. Friction surfaces are also upgraded with premium materials to ensure the new clutch doesn’t just feel and perform far better than a stock unit ever could, but will last longer as well. Your 4WD can only perform as good as its weakest link. If your clutch is shuddering, slipping, or just too hard to control you’ll spend your time fighting your 4WD, rather than enjoying it.

      Why Choose Roo Systems for your 4WD?

      Why Choose Roo Systems for your 4WD?

      Why choose Roo Systems for your 4WD?

      A 4WD can be worth more than just the parts you add to it. For a lot of people they are a part of the family. Maintaining and accessorising can be an important part of ownership to many people. Choosing the right shock absorber isn’t a case of finding the most expensive. In fact, for some people running a budget shock and focusing on other areas might be the best way to spend their money. Likewise, different bull bars serve different purposes, as do driving lights and communication setups, performance modifications, and camping setups. Simply throwing the most expensive of each option at a 4WD is a sure-fire way to find yourself with a big bill and a 4WD that doesn’t work as well as it should.

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